Wandering along the Deben Estuary
Suffolk’s five estuaries have protected the east of Suffolk from
the ravages of the motorway, thus ensuring that it remains a relatively
peaceful and unspoilt coastline despite its close proximity to London.
Each estuary has its own unique quality and singular charm.
A particular favourite is the Deben Estuary. Protected by a raft
of national and international conservation designations what was true
for W.G. Arnott in his book Suffolk Estuary (1950) remains true even
today:
“
wooded banks… sandy beaches and dry landing-places… gentle
sloping cornfields and lush green marshes, it has no other river to
compare with it.”
There are very few public access roads down to the waterside, but
it is never more than a couple of miles from the road and the walk
down
sandy tracks or across gently undulating heath land is well worth
while, for, once reached, the estuary opens up before your eyes framed
by sandy
beaches, wooded cliffs and purple heaths.
There is almost no commercial traffic on the Deben, although
you might be lucky enough to see the occasional Thames barge, its
blood red sails
lifting in the coastal breeze, and the majority of pleasure
craft are sail powered and therefore noiseless. But this isn’t
an estuary for the novice to sail in, at least not if you are entering
from the sea. Yachts and dinghies have to navigate
around a large sand bank just off Felixstowe
Ferry before enjoying
the breathtaking view of the broad estuary ahead.
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The Shed Felixstowe Ferry
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Felixstowe Ferry is on the south bank of the Deben, its cottages and fishing huts overlooking the sea, the estuary entrance and Felixstowe’s
lovely heath land golf course. It is a fascinating little
hamlet, its beach littered with fishing boats and dinghies. Well served,
it has
two good pubs, The Victoria and The
Ferry Boat Inn, both making good
use of the excellent fresh fish, caught daily off the coast
and sold to the public from The Shed, a fresh fish stall standing amongst the
upturned boats and fishermen’s huts on the beach. Felixstowe
Ferry Sailing Club is a popular club both with local sailors
and for those wanting some exciting racing, unencumbered
by the plethora of
commercial shipping and motor boats which now make south
coast sailing feel like a trip on the M25. There is also
a water
ski school, offering
courses throughout the summer.
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Crabbing Felixstowe Ferry
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And if you want to find out about the favoured pastime for children
from four to forty (and beyond) just take a look at the quay.
Strewn with buckets, lines and hooks and a host of onlookers is one
of the
oldest and most enticing pleasures of the long summer holidays
- crab fishing. Caught and released several times a day, the crabs
are well
fed and pretty nifty at making their escape back over the
beach and into the North Sea.
If
Felixstowe Ferry should pall, or you are looking for a different perspective
then a short ferry ride will take you across
the Deben
to Bawdsey Quay. The ferry service works throughout the
summer. If the ferryman isn’t there then raise the bat and wave
it and he will be with you shortly; as a last resort drop in at the
boatyard
from where the ferry is operated.
Another small hamlet, the cottages of Bawdsey Quay enjoy more spectacular
views over the little sandy beach, the  estuary entrance
to the south east and up river towards Ramsholt in the west. Strategically
important
in World War II, Bawdsey was home to the development of
radar, its building a runner up in the 2004 BBC Restoration Project.
The building
is open to the public - for more information contact info@bawdseyradargroup.co.uk .
Above the quay stands Bawdsey Manor, its wooded grounds
hiding the Gothic façade of the mansion. The property
was built in the 1890s for Sir Cuthbert Quilter, and it was he who
set
up the original ferry linking Bawdsey to Felixstowe Ferry.
From the quay you can follow the Suffolk Coast and Heaths Path along
the headland.
Just beyond the quay is Bawdsey sailing school running
week- long sailing courses throughout the summer.
Just in front of you is a lovely little sandy beach, a great place
for the children to play and safer for paddling than the
shingle beach facing the sea which, as with much of the coastline,
has a strong north
south current close into the shore.
A narrow road travels beside the estuary for half a mile
or so before going inland to Bawdsey village from where one can turn
right to East
Lane and back to the sea where there are some war time
defence bunkers and a Martello tower, one of five built on the coast
between Felixstowe
and Aldeburgh, as defence bastions during the Napoleonic
wars. Here you can stand on the low cliff watching the waves pound
the shore.
A pleasant walk takes you along the headland - pa
rt of
the Suffolk Coast and Heaths Path - from where you can look out across
the shingle
bank towards Shingle Street and Orford in the distance.
 To
return to the river by car one must first pass through Alderton and
then on to Ramsholt where lies the riverside pub The
Ramsholt Arms - very popular for Sunday lunch
with the family, so do be prepared to book in the summer. The pub
and its large garden
has
fantastic views
over the quay and another sandy beach towards the grazing
marshes, the sea and the sheltered wooded slopes, shallow cliffs
and sandy beaches
which contribute so much to the beauty of the Deben
Estuary. Here, as everywhere along the Deben, you will see many wading
birds
and wildfowl.
Walking along from Ramsholt one can eventually see
Waldringfield on the far bank, a delightful little village, with
a waterfront little changed in fifty years and another waterside pub,
the Maybush Inn,
which, like The Ramsholt Arms, has gardens overlooking
the quay and boatyard. Up on the cliff which overlooks the yacht moorings,
sits
Waldringfield Sailing Club, a popular venue for dinghy racing and well
favoured by a number of international dinghy sailors.
For those looking for a more restful appraisal of the estuary Deben
Cruises runs river cruises aboard the MV Jahan,
which can include lunch or tea. Cruises run from May to September -
you do have to book.
Back on the north shore the road takes you through
Sutton, beyond which are acres and acres of lowland heath, home to
the woodlark, the yellow
hammer and nightjar and grazing ground for deer.
Brightened by the yellow gorse and the purple heather the heaths
are well worth investigating.
Sutton Hoo, the famous Anglo Saxon burial ground
is on the road to Woodbridge, and from here you can see stunning
views of the Deben Estuary and the
ancient market town of Woodbridge on the far
shore. |
