Walking Around Woodbridge
Some while ago I was talking to Woodbridge friends who had just returned
from a holiday in France. They had had a great time but were feeling
tired and rather flat after their long journey home; that is until
they reached Market Hill where they stopped the car and looked around
them. Before them stood the Shire Hall, and piazza style square,
the pump and an array of hanging baskets and planters full of summer
flowers
with the tower of St Mary's Church in the background.
He told me that despite living in Woodbridge all their lives they
had never really appreciated how attractive and fascinating the town
was. They
looked at one another and said in unison. How about Woodbridge for
our next holiday Next day they walked around
the town, appreciating the historic beauty and delightful atmosphere
with new eyes. Woodbridge really is a fascinating town, well worth
spending time in.
If you are visiting rather than staying in Woodbridge there are several
car parks close to the river on either side of the Ipswich Road - the
Turban Centre, the station car park and the leisure centre car park.
You might prefer to take the train to Woodbridge, well worth it as
there are splendid views across the estuaries and the sea along the
East Coast line from Ipswich to Lowestoft.
Work began in 1856 to create the railway line; the Eastern Union Railway
owning the line to the north of Woodbridge and the East Suffolk Railway
south; the level crossing on Tide Mill Way being the actual boundary
between the two companiesí railways. The line finally opened
on 1st June 1859.
Starting your walk from the front of the railway station you can either
follow a short walk through the town or beside the river. The more
energetic might prefer to do both.
From the station turn right beside the Riverside - a cinema / theatre
with a lovely restaurant - and follow the river walk round to the
Tide Mill. A five storey, white weather boarded building; this is the
only
working tide mill in the country. There has been a mill here since1170;
the present one, built in the early eighteenth century, worked commercially
until 1956 when the shaft of the water wheel broke. In 1968 the decaying
mill was bought and restored, a new mill pond being dug in 1981.
In beautiful condition, open to visitors from Easter to October The
Tide
Mill is well worth a visit.
The river front has changed considerably over the past 100 years.
Today this is an area largely devoted to leisure, although there are
still boat builders, sail makers and chandlers scattered along the
riverbank. From here there are superb views both along and across the
river to Sutton Hoo. Follow the path past the Waterfront Cafe over
the railway and across the Ipswich Road. If you turn right you will
see Brook Street on your left, with its pretty little traditional cottages,
turn right again through the Turban Centre Car Park and follow the
signs for Elmhurst Park. A quiet haven, Elmhurst Park was given to
the town by the last Lord Woodbridge in 1935. The gardens are beautifully
kept and great for picnics. Look out for the summer concert programme.
Follow the path across the top of the park and you will come to the
Red Lion Pub. From here turn left along the Thoroughfare. Take a right
turn past Woodbridge Fine Foods and Woodbridge Library and then follow
New Street (said to be the oldest street in Woodbridge.)  There
are several interesting buildings on your left, a delightful timber
framed house
- Bridewell - one of the few exposed timber framed buildings in Woodbridge.
The original arched tops to the doorways and windows remain. Close
by is The Bell and Steelyard, a delightful jettied building. The ësteelyardí was
used to weigh loaded carts on their way down to the river from the
market and empty carts on their way back. The old market was in Market
Hill which opens out before you at the top of New Street.
Attractively framed by some really delightful buildings, a number
dating back to the early medieval period; the steep roofs the only
outward
clue to their age, Market Hill is dominated by the magnificent Shire
Hall. Built at the behest of Thomas Seckford, who used it for court
sessions, its exterior was meticulously renovated in 2004.  Now used
for civil weddings and council meetings, the first floor houses the
Suffolk Horse Museum, an exhibition devoted to the Suffolk Punch,
a rare breed of heavy working horses.
Before the Shire Hall stands the Town Pump.
Built in 1876, again
from funds provided by the Thomas Seckford Foundation, the pump and
drinking
fountain provided much needed water for the old thriving livestock
market.
On the north of the square is a plaque commemorating Edward
FitzGerald, famous for his translation of the Rubaiyat of Omar Khayyam
(see
the Woodbridge Wits), while to the south of the square is the Woodbridge
Museum, a timber framed building with a later Georgian brick façade,
a treasure trove of information on the history of the town and
Sutton Hoo, the Saxon burial ground. To
the west of the square is the King's Head, have a look at the small
carvings on the exterior cross beam on the Seckford
Street
side. Again the street includes a number of medieval buildings
as well as at least three old pubs, now houses.
Beyond the Fen Meadow, once home to fairs and occasional circuses
are the Seckford Almshouses which were substantially improved in
the mid
1800s to include an hospital and chapel and the laying out of terraced
gardens, the grounds enclosed by magnificent iron palisading and
two sets of iron gates bearing the arms of Thomas Seckford.
If you now re-pass the Fen Meadow you will see Queen's Head
Lane on your left which leads up to Theatre Street (a steep hill!)
and directly in front of you the grounds of Woodbridge School. To
the right is the remains of an old windmill. On the left of Theatre
Street is the old House of Correction, on the right an attractive carved
wooden arch leading to what was The Old School.
Back in Market Hill you will see an alleyway on your right.  Take the
path through here and down the steps to the magnificent entrance to
St Mary's Church - it has to be one of the most attractive approaches
of any church.
There has been a church here since before the Norman Conquest, and
when a priory was founded in the late 12th century the old building
was used by both the canons and the people. Work began on the current
church at the beginning of the 15th century. The
splendid 108 ft tower and flushwork base display crowned 'MR's
for the Blessed Virgin Mary. There is much to see in the spacious stately
interior,
including the rather battered but beautiful Seven Sacrament font and
a delightful medieval brass.
Thomas Seckford built his own chapel north
of the chancel where lay his tomb, that is until the Victorians
purchased a new organ and the tomb was moved. If you leave the churchyard via the main entrance you will see Church
Street with its pretty Georgian Terrace opposite beside the Bull
Hotel. At one time a coaching inn, its most famous landlord was John
Groats,
who bred horses and sold them to the King of Italy and the Viceroy
of India.
Church Street includes a wide variety of buildings, of various
ages and styles, from the medieval to the ultra modern - a really
attractive composition. The Abbey, once an Augustinian  Priory (now
the Abbey
School) was renovated and made into a family home by Thomas Seckford,
and is
a good example of early brick building, the pinnacles later additions.
Opposite the Abbey you will see a shop front with what looks
like bricks above. Look carefully, for these íbricksí are,
in fact, tiles hung with mathematical precision. FollowChurch Street
down to Turn Lane on your right.
On
the  right is a Quaker graveyard where Bernard Barton is buried
(banker and poet and another of the Woodbridge wits).
The bottom of the lane opening onto Cumberland
Street contains the most fantastic and ever growing collection
of plants lovingly
cared
for by one of the cottage owners.
Just to the right are some early Victorian houses with large,
glass panes and recessed windows and doorways. Note the fine
Victorian toothed
detailing to the fascia and bargeboards on no. 29, the building
itself is a much older - timber framed construction - with a
jettied first
floor. Bartonís Cottage which he described as ìMy little
nut shell of a houseî is well worth a look.
Cumberland, Marston and Gordon Houses form a very fine group
with their Georgian exteriors, doors and door cases. Named after
officers
who
lived in them during the Napoleonic Wars.
At the junction with Quay Street you can either take a diversion along
the Thoroughfare and enjoy the shops or make your way back down towards
the station passing the old Customs House on your way.
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